Sunday, 4 March 2012

Newtyle Quarry

Joanna and I met up with Greg Boswell, Adam Russell, and his brother Dougie and dog Holly, at Newtyle quarry today. Joanna led Bonzai and Grooviliscious (both M4) and I climbed Pullviliscious (M6). I had to work out a new sequence as alot of holds seemed to have disappeared since last time I tryed it and I pulled the top flakey hold off on my first attempt. This meant that I had to do a balancy move up using the arete and mantling onto my axe.
After this we went inside where we watched Adam climb Too Fast Too Furious (M11+), then Greg try his new project, which looks really hard. I seemed to get pumped whilst watching them, then loose the pump as they shook out.
Adam Too Fast Too Furious (photo credit: Joanna Lisowiec)
It was my turn next so I tied into the bottom of my new project, Torchlite (M11). The first section went quite well and I was soon onto new ground, I tried it once before but didn't get very far. I made it to the top on my first attempt, despite abit of huffing and puffing.
Myself cutting loose on Torchlite (photo credit: Joanna Lisowiec)
Adam was back on next and decided to try to extend DTS spirit (M12) to the chains on Too Fast Too Furious. Im not sure how seriously he was taking it to begin with, as he was already tired, but after crusing up DTS he went for it. A few minutes later he was at the top with the chains clipped and a new route in the bag. He has named it French Connection UK, in homage to the french guys that bolted DTS. He has proposed a grade of M12+, although he isn't too sure on the grade.
Adam looking happy lowering off after the first ascent of F.C.U.K. (photo credit: Joanna Lisowiec)
I had another go on Torchlite after that, and managed it with only 3 rests this time.
I have decided I quite like the unexpected falls you get drytooling. I took two from Torchlite and quite a few more from Pullviliscious whilst trying to work out what hooks I could use.

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