Wednesday, 21 March 2012


The weather was so nice in Edinburgh today that it would be silly to climb indoors so Mark Olsthoorn, Lizzie Jenkins, Sarah Lund, James Lismore and I went to Cambusbarron, near Stirling. Sarah injured herself juggling last night so she just came to take pictures and just generally be outside.
I started on Gobi's Roof (E2 5c). One of my flat mates fell off it last year and since then ive wanted to try it, not to show off though ofcourse. The route climbs up a short corner then a hard pull round a small roof and then some easier climbing to the top. I hung around for a while at the roof but once I committed it wasn't too bad.
Myself on Gobis Roof (Photo: Sarah Lund)
Next I belayed James on The Doogie Brothers (E1 5b) which featured some hard jamming/lay backing. Once he worked out the moves it didn't seem to give him much trouble.
James on The Doogie Brothers (Photo: Sarah Lund)
I then decided to try and climb Chisel (E4 6a), which takes a finger crack to about half way where it runs out and crimps lead to the top. I tried the crack, then got stuck, hung around for a while, then down climbed. After a break I got back on and climbed the crack and did the move I couldn't before. Then I was on the good crimps until a tricky move at the top then the top out. I did the tricky move, I found it quite tricky. You have to go from two side pulls to another one above you head on some poor feet. I managed to place a good came in the crack which the side pull was in and move up abit further. After mantiling onto a large break I placed a cam at my feet and tried to work out the top couple of moves. I found some hold and move up. My feet were now above my final piece of gear. I saw a large hold on a rounded arete. It was good. "OK then I can just haul off this then flop over the top", where my thoughts. I would finally be able to celebrate my first E4 lead, and its onsight aswell. The hard climbing wall well over so this should be easy. I pulled on the hold but it came off in my hand and I was sent flying, along with rocks, down the crack. All my gear held, which was lucky as I thought the last cam was rubbish. Deflated I pulled back up the ropes and topped out. Just like on The Ivy League on sunday I'm glad I committed and took the fall, but I wish I had got this clean. Never mind, theres always next time.
High up on Chisel (Photo: Sarah Lund)
The crack on Chisel (Photo: Sarah Lund)
 Today Mark and Lizzie climbed Gobis Roof, Not Easy Contract (E1 5b) and Easy Contarct (HVS 5b). Mark led them all.
Mark on Not Easy Contract (Photo: Sarah Lund)
Mark on Gobis Roof (Photo: Sarah Lund)

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