Thursday, 5 January 2012

Salisbury crags

Today I headed up to the Salisbury crags for abit of a boulder around. Andy Moles has put some nice topos of problems on the crags on UKC so I printed some out and headed up with my shoes. Some bits were wet so I did problems on the slab under neath rotten overhang and black slab, which were dry. By the time I had done those the sun was out of the quarry and it was starting to get cold so I went back home. The Salsibury crags are a dolerite sill and not sandstone like the new Bouldering Britain guide claims, although there is sandstone above and below the sill which can be seen in the Hutton section on the crags and in the small quarry above hunters bog. The sill intruded between beds in the sandstone back when scotland was nice and warm and near the equator.
After the crags I headed down to the CSE. They claimed that they were going to have a day of setting routes, as they took down and washed all the blue holds yesterday. Being the CSE this didn't happen but there was a new 6b of Toms which I did. The main aim of going down was to train with my schmoolz for when the weather decides to play ball. I was working on some things with Sianan yesterday and managed to get one of them, the green 6a on the overhang, which includes a dyno for a large flat hold. The other, a 6b+ on the stepped wall, is still proving to be abit of a problem with a large crux move bettween a good hold, although not deep enough to pull off, and 2 directional holds. I managed the move after abit of work with a big lock off and abit of a wild flail in the right direction. I managed it yesterday too, but with an intermediate hold, and a cut loose so I did it in a much better style today. I will add a review of the Schmoolz when I get round to writing one, its taken me over a year so far! Sorry Schmoolz.

Contemplating the crux

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