After the crags I headed down to the CSE. They claimed that they were going to have a day of setting routes, as they took down and washed all the blue holds yesterday. Being the CSE this didn't happen but there was a new 6b of Toms which I did. The main aim of going down was to train with my schmoolz for when the weather decides to play ball. I was working on some things with Sianan yesterday and managed to get one of them, the green 6a on the overhang, which includes a dyno for a large flat hold. The other, a 6b+ on the stepped wall, is still proving to be abit of a problem with a large crux move bettween a good hold, although not deep enough to pull off, and 2 directional holds. I managed the move after abit of work with a big lock off and abit of a wild flail in the right direction. I managed it yesterday too, but with an intermediate hold, and a cut loose so I did it in a much better style today. I will add a review of the Schmoolz when I get round to writing one, its taken me over a year so far! Sorry Schmoolz.
|Contemplating the crux|