Wednesday, 11 January 2012

Newtyle mass sendage

It was back to Newtyle quarry today with Adam, Greg, James and Joanna. We got an early start so that we could have as long on our respective routes a possible. Adam was trying Torchlite, Greg his project and I was attempting Fast and Furious. James, who had managed to do Torchlite on his previous visit, was camera man.
To warm up me and Joanna went down to Doorjamb slab. I red pointed Roofiliscious, which Joanna seconded, and also onsighted Bonzai, D4.
Once we'd both done Bonzai Greg came down asking if he could have a belay as he was going to have a go on his project. He was going to need two ropes to reduce rope drag, as the route was so long and wandering. He gave it a good go and managed to clip all but the loweroff where he dropped his axe, ending his first redpoint attempt of the day.
Greg battling away
Joanna and I headed down to the Doorjamb slab for abit longer after this. On monday I didn't feel like I was using my feet atall well so I was trying to carefully place my feet on little features and keep my heels still. After belaying Joanna on Grooviliscious, D4, we headed back up the hill into the tube. When we got back we heard that Adam had managed to tick his project of Torchlite, D11.
I was next up to tie into the sharp end. I borrowed Greg axes today. They are Grivel Force Alloys and feel pretty amazing. Before starting I decided that I was going to be decisive with my movements and hit get the hooks first time. I started well and managed to remember the sequence well up until the 3rd clip where I lost my feet a little. I composed myself and managed to make it to the twin slots before having to take. This was by far my best link up of the route so far. I dogged up to the chains making sure I had the rest of the moves wired.
Greg on the top slab of TBBW
Greg was ready for a burn on his project next. He crusied through the lower sections, changed rope, and battled through the pump to reach his previous high point, despite cutting loose a couple of times. Greg reached the lip of the roof and, making sure that he didn't drop his axe again, mantled onto the final hanging slab. He managed to remain focussed an not celebrate too early and clipped the chain. Greg named the route "The Big Bad Wolf", after a song which he played when working the route, and graded it D12.
The pressure was now on me to get a day of mass sending in the tube by ticking Fast and Furious. I stood at the bottom waving Gregs axes around, as I was going to use them again, trying to get the sequence dialed in my head. After a quick cup of coffee and some food I was ready to go. I was feeling quite nervous but really psyched after seeing Greg on his route. I started badly messing my feet up but this must have got the mistakes out of the way as I remembered the sequence perfectly up to the slabby shelf. By this stage I was getting pretty pumped and had to swap bettween fig 4's and fig 9's to allow myself to recover. Once the lactic acid had drained out of my arms I pulled as hard as I could and managed to hit the next hold perfect first time and them up to the last hook. All I had left to do was clip the chain, easy right? Well actually no. I was so pumped that reaching behind my head to clip the lower off was proving hard. I hung around for a while, alternatively shaking out again, before pushing down as hard as I could on my front point and clipping the chain. I did a pull up on the final hold to make sure there was no doubt about my ascent and lowered to ground. This was my first D10 and I did it on my 5th attempt, so I'm pretty pleased really. Im not sure how much part my recent schmoolz training had on my ascent but they must have played a part.
Me just before the chain on F&F
Adam had a quick go on Too Fast Too Furious, the extension to Fast and Furious. A block had fallen out, which provided one of the crux hold, so he had to work a new sequence. Adam managed to reach the Torchlite loweroff, which is past the lost hold, so the route is still possible.
Adam on TFTF
I decided to have a quick go on Torchlite but I was abit too tired and it was quite hard so I didn't get too far.
All in all a pretty good day, and now I think I deserve a day off before heading back up north to make the most of the cold weather which is on its way.
Greg has a write up on his blog too.

No comments:

Post a Comment