To warm up me and Joanna went down to Doorjamb slab. I red pointed Roofiliscious, which Joanna seconded, and also onsighted Bonzai, D4.
Once we'd both done Bonzai Greg came down asking if he could have a belay as he was going to have a go on his project. He was going to need two ropes to reduce rope drag, as the route was so long and wandering. He gave it a good go and managed to clip all but the loweroff where he dropped his axe, ending his first redpoint attempt of the day.
|Greg battling away|
I was next up to tie into the sharp end. I borrowed Greg axes today. They are Grivel Force Alloys and feel pretty amazing. Before starting I decided that I was going to be decisive with my movements and hit get the hooks first time. I started well and managed to remember the sequence well up until the 3rd clip where I lost my feet a little. I composed myself and managed to make it to the twin slots before having to take. This was by far my best link up of the route so far. I dogged up to the chains making sure I had the rest of the moves wired.
|Greg on the top slab of TBBW|
The pressure was now on me to get a day of mass sending in the tube by ticking Fast and Furious. I stood at the bottom waving Gregs axes around, as I was going to use them again, trying to get the sequence dialed in my head. After a quick cup of coffee and some food I was ready to go. I was feeling quite nervous but really psyched after seeing Greg on his route. I started badly messing my feet up but this must have got the mistakes out of the way as I remembered the sequence perfectly up to the slabby shelf. By this stage I was getting pretty pumped and had to swap bettween fig 4's and fig 9's to allow myself to recover. Once the lactic acid had drained out of my arms I pulled as hard as I could and managed to hit the next hold perfect first time and them up to the last hook. All I had left to do was clip the chain, easy right? Well actually no. I was so pumped that reaching behind my head to clip the lower off was proving hard. I hung around for a while, alternatively shaking out again, before pushing down as hard as I could on my front point and clipping the chain. I did a pull up on the final hold to make sure there was no doubt about my ascent and lowered to ground. This was my first D10 and I did it on my 5th attempt, so I'm pretty pleased really. Im not sure how much part my recent schmoolz training had on my ascent but they must have played a part.
|Me just before the chain on F&F|
|Adam on TFTF|
All in all a pretty good day, and now I think I deserve a day off before heading back up north to make the most of the cold weather which is on its way.
Greg has a write up on his blog too.