Dogging in Yorkshire

This post refers to me falling off a lot of things recently.
You may be glad to know I did manage to do over 100 climbs in June, 115 in total. The last of these came at Aberdour and Wolf Crag. July began with a trip to Auchinstarry quarry where I climbed lots of very nice routes including Midas Touch and Gold Rush, both E1. Auchinstarry was the start of my falling off where I took a reasonable fall off Promotry Direct (HVS) when my foot slipped close to the top. It was perfectly safe and I easily managed to finish the climb afterwards.
Whilst being back at home I have been joined by Joanna and a few other friends from Edinburgh. Before this though I went to Almscliff with Katy, where I climbed Franklins Green Crack (VS) and Overhanging Groove (HVS).
On the 12th July I made my way to the Roaches to meet up with Sam Capewell where we bouldered around a bit and I led the super classic and intimidating "The Sloth" (HVS). It take a crack through a large steep roof. I decided to climb up to the roof, place gear, then climb back down to a large ledge where I would allow my arms to recover the quickly climb the rest of the roof. This tactic worked and I quickly dispatched the roof.

The Sloth

The weekend after Joanna, Oliver Millington, Naomi Hatto and Lukas Solanka came down and I met them at Almscliff on Saturday evening. That evening I climbed "The Great Western" (HVS) with Joanna. TGW is one of the classic routes at the crag and I was glad to finally get it done. Through the week I made a number more trips to the cliff climbing Dolphin Belly Slap and Syretts Roof, both V6, among other things.Both of these took lots of attempts as I never got everything completely right, like my thumb was in the wrong place or my feet slipped.
On the Sunday we went to Ilkley where I climbed a few nice things including Fairy Wall (E2) and a number of boulder problems and I soloed a few routes too. 

Reaching for nothingness of Fairy Wall

Midweek we made our way to the peak district with the intention of climbing at the roaches. Unfortunatley it was very wet there so we went to New Mills Tor, which is perma-dry, for some undercover routes and bouldering. Here I managed to climb Honcho (E4 6b) on my second lead attempt. This is currently my hardest clean trad lead.
We ended the week with a trip to Heptonstall and Almscliff before I dropped Joanna off at the train on Sunday evening. Heptonstall was in fact the crag which gave this post its name. I tried Demerara (E4) there which takes a line up two cracks on the steep main wall. I fell of this repeatedly, and didn't manage to get it clean, although I did get to the top of it in the end.

Before the rains came

Before the traditional Scottish summer rains arrived I managed another two days of climbing, adding to my recent active spell at the start of June.
On the 4th June Joanna and I had a short day at Auchinstarry quarry in Ayrshire. I led Cats Whiskers, all be it with the more sane arete finish, lowering the grade to E1 5a, instead of E2 5b. Joanna Led Mr Men (VS 4b) and Scream (S 4a).

Cats Whiskers (Photo Credit: Joanna Lisowiec)

On the 5th June Joanna and I crossed over the border to climb at Bowden in Northumberland. We were going to go to Simonside but the weather forecast didn't look as favorable further south. I began by attempting the Trial (E3 5c). I made it up to the last break but I didn't feel I could commit to the finishing moves and so down climbed, saving the onsight. I managed to do the route clean on my second attempt. I also soloed Bloody Nose (HS 5a), The Shiner (VS 5b), Crab Wall (HS 4b), Woolmans Wall (VS 5a), Sue Direct (HVS 5b) and I also led Handrail (VS 4c).

The Trial (Photo Credit: Joanna Lisowiec)

While at Bowden I decided to work a boulder problem with a climber who was by himself. His name was Nicolas and it turns out I did the same thing with him at the crags not too long ago. He was working His Eminence, a font 7a+ highball boulder problem. Although I didn't manage to get the full route I did manage to do the short variation on it which goes at font 6b.

His Eminence (Photo Credit: Joanna Lisowiec)

I will hopefully manage to get some more climbing done despite the starting of the monsoon season. I shall explore the potential perma-dry crags in and around Edinburgh and report back.

Catch up

I haven't written a post in a while now. This is mainly due to exams but the weather also hasn't been great. In my 2 month absence I have finished my second year of uni, moved flat and also injured myself in a number of ways. I have damaged my little and ring fingers on my left hand (not recovered), hurt my shoulder (recovered), hurt my foot (recovered) and then hurt my foot again (not recovered). There may be more but that is all that springs to mind.
I have been climbing in my absence, but most of this has been indoors so not worth talking about. I did managed a day at the Wainstones in North Yorkshire during April, when I soloed a wet diff called Wall and Ledge, which felt quite hard in trainers. On the 16th, after my exams finished, I had a day trip to the Lake District, with Tom Challands. We climbed Brown Slabs (D) at Shepherds Crag, Borrowdale.

Aberdour (Photo Credit: Joanna Lisowiec)

It wasn't until the 26th May when Fran Coles and I headed to Glen Coe and Glen Nevis for the weekend that I actually started getting productive. We climbed one route on Great Gully Buttress on the Buachaille, Direct Route (HS), and a number of things in Glen Nevis, including Tear (HS), Pine Wall (HS), Razor (VS) and The Gutter (D). On the Tuesday after Joanna and I headed late on to Aberdour, where I lead Guano (VS), just as the tide was coming in. We then decided to move to Rosyth where Joanna climbed Heathy (VS). It rained whilst I was seconding so we decided to call it a day.
On the 1st June Joanna and I returned to Rosyth. I climbed Cathy (VS), which is a sister route to Heathy, all be it harder. We weren't feeling particularly psychey so after a short play around on Philistine we went home.
Joanna and I went to Traprain Law on the 2nd June. It was Joannas first visit, although I had been there a few time. We climbed a good few routes including; Sabre Cut (VS), Wheechs Overhang (VS) and Steptoe (S). 

Loudoun Hill

Today Joanna and I decided to go to Loundoun Hill in Ayrshire. I have never been to Loundoun hill before so was looking forward to seeing what it would offer. We began by climbing The Edge, which is a classic VS arete climb. There are two pitches, although the first isn't very good compared to the second. There is lots of exposure on the knife edged arete. Afterwards I lead Pulpit Crack (HVS), which takes a steep fist sized crack up a pulpit of rock. It has a quite strenous start but relents once the crack has been climbed. Joanna then climed Pulpit Arete (S). We finished the day on The Belk (E1) and Cave Crack (HVS), both of which are worth their 3 stars, and are also very different style of routes.

The Edge

Hopefully the weather will continue and I shall try and update this more often!